These pages are devoted to my trips to Ireland.  Usually, I opt to rent a car and travel on my own rather than with an organized tour, so that I have the flexibility of going where I want, when I want. This also gives me the ability to adjust my daily itinerary as the weather dictates.

I have just begun to explore the sights that each area has to offer.  Despite having seen much over the years, I feel like I have barely scratched the surface.  I wonder what it must have been like in ancient Ireland. One can hardly go more than 10 miles without seeing the ruins of a stone castle, fortress, church, or monastery/abbey. The land is magical in its lush green beauty and fuscia grow wild along the sides of the road. Rhododendron, popular in the United States, are an invasive plant in Ireland and treated like a weed.  But undoubtedly the things that tore at my heart were the "wind farms"...those ugly propeller driven electrical generators...that are cropping up around the country and destroying the beauty of the surrounding landscape.

Hyperlinks to my favorite photos, web sites, and sights/attractions have been inserted throughout. I hope that you enjoy viewing them as much as I enjoyed taking them.

• General
• Cell Phones
• Food and Drink
• Lodging (Includes recommendations)
• Money
• Music
• Roads
• Weather

Photos (may be slow to load)

• Cork and Kerry
• East
• Lower Shannon
• North and Northwest
• Midlands
• Southeast
• West

Other photos

• The Faces of Ireland

General

I have traveled extensively throughout Europe and the Pacific, both personally and professionally, and I can truthfully say that the Irish people are the most pleasant and friendly people I have ever met. Invariably cheerful, they will bend over backward to help you in any way they can. The scenery is indescribable although, if you were to draw a line down the center of the country, I personally prefer the areas to the west to those on the east. While Dublin is a "don’t miss" with its unique sights and attractions, I prefer rural towns and villages to cities. If you are visiting some of Ireland’s major tourist attractions, I recommend arriving as early as possible before the endless onslaught of tour buses begins to make the afternoon lines (queues) rather lengthy. For example, I encountered a two-hour wait at Blarney Castle and a four-hour wait at Newgrange. I expected to see numerous American visitors, but was surprised that the vast majority of the tourists were European – particularly German, Spanish, and Italian.

English is spoken throughout the nation but there are many regions, especially in the west, where Irish is spoken as the primary language (Gaeltacht regions) and many of the signs reflect that preference.

Food and Drink

Don't believe the stories that the food in Ireland is bad.   People who say that either went years ago or they chose the wrong places to eat, because I have never had a bad meal. The breads and soups are especially delicious - I could travel throughout the country subsisting on nothing but the vast variety of breads and soups. However, the Irish do use very little salt, if any, in their cooking. Instead, they use a variety of sauces with herbs and seasonings and a delectable combination of herbs with their vegetables.

Most B&Bs only serve breakfast but you can pretty much have whatever you’d like. There is usually a common buffet table of cereals, juices, fresh fruits, breads, and jams/marmalades. This is complemented either by individual orders or by the popular traditional Irish breakfast consisting of eggs (any style), Irish bacon (rashers), sausages, grilled tomatoes and "puddings." I like the white pudding most of the time (it varies from area to area but generally tastes like scrapple if you've ever had that) but could never acquire a taste for the black pudding. Don't order pancakes if you expect them to be like the ones in America.  They are more like crepes than the pancakes we are used to in the States. 

If you choose not to eat at your B&B, breakfast is generally available at pubs/restaurants until around noon and there are some that serve breakfast all day.  Lunch is normally served from noon until 3 PM and at least one good pub or restaurant can be found in every town. You can choose by sight or ask the locals for recommendations. Some serve "pub food" (soups and sandwiches or stews) and others serve full meals.  The better ones will have the menus posted near the door.  When in doubt, fish and chips are always a pleasant safe bet. 

The Irish eat dinner later than we are used to – with the prime hours being between 8 and 10 PM. Early seatings are plentiful, but reservations are recommended during the prime hours especially for the more popular dining spots. Dress is casual although a few of the fancier places require a coat and tie but those are usually the restaurants at the castles and 5-star hotels.

Lodging

I make all of my lodging arrangements in advance over the Internet although that certainly isn’t necessary. There are literally thousands of B&Bs throughout Ireland at very reasonable cost. I only do it because I'm particular about quality and I want to be sure my bookings are confirmed. Each town of any size has a Tourist Board office that can recommend places to stay.  Town and Country Homes Association is a great source of lodging information by county.

If you want upscale accommodations, I strongly suggest two outstanding resources – Hidden Ireland and Ireland’s Blue Book - which provide information on a unique collection of castles, smaller luxury hotels, and private country manor houses offering an opportunity to sample Irish country life at its very best, in a style not usually experienced by the ordinary tourist. Most are historic buildings of dating back to the 15^th century with interesting owners who enjoy sharing their homes and their way of life.

The following are places that I have personally used and would highly recommend to others:

1.  Co. Cork:

Macliam Lodge, Clonakilty     Lovely B&B in West Cork run by Maeve O' Grady Williams who is an absolute gem!  Comfortable, well appointed rooms.  Cenrally located in Co. Cork for daytrips in any direction.  Winner of the National Award of Excellence.

Rivermount House, Kinsale     Located close to Kinsale with a fantastic view of the Bandon River valley. Run by the O'Sullivan family. Awarded 4 Diamonds by the Irish Automobile Association (AA).

2.  Co. Kerry:

Alderhaven B&B     Run by Norrie O'Neill who can make anyone feel welcome. Her husband, Pat, is a wealth of historical information.  Fantastic choice in an area populated with B&Bs.  Well appointed rooms and close to City Center (5 mins).

3.  Co. Clare:

Dromoland Castle    Luxury living at its best!!  Not for everyone but certainly worth a try if you want to go first class.  Lavish rooms with a fantastic restaurant.  Must dress for dinner in the main restaurant.

4.  Co. Galway:

Ard Mhuire B&B, Salthill, Galway     Salthill is a very nice section of town close to downtown (10 mins).  Located just off the beach and 2 mins from the Liesureland Amusement Park.  Your host, Teresa McDonagh, is terrific!!

Cashel House, Cashel     Another 4-star luxury establishment in the middle of the Connemara region of Co. Galway, and 5 mins from the popular resort town of Clifden. Beautiful rooms (especially the Garden Suites) and a first class restaurant.

Marian Lodge, Salthill, Galway     Another lovely Salthill B&B run by Ceiline Molloy who is a gracious host.  Well appointed throughout and awarded 4 diamonds by AA.

5.  Co. Mayo:

Windermere House, Castlebar     Run by Kay McGrath, Windermere is conveniently located to Westport, Achill Island, and numerous Co. Mayo tourist attractions.

6.  Co. Donegal:

The Arches Country House, Lough Eske, Donegal Town     Noreen McGinty runs one of the nicest B&Bs in the Donegal area.  Spacious, elegant rooms with an incredible view of Lough Eske.  Noreen is pleasant and a wealth of local information.  One of the nicest B&Bs I've been in.

Ardeevin Guest House, Lough Eske, Donegal Town     Located next door to The Arches, Ardeevin is run by Mary McGinty and rival The Arches in ambience. A good choice.

Ardglas, Letterkenny     Breid and Paddy Kelly's B&B is located on the outskirts of Letterkenny.  The Kellys are excellent hosts and the rooms are lovely.  Letterkenny is a good choice for daytrips through Donegal and into Derry, Northern Ireland.

7.  Co. Westmeath:

Mornington, Multyfarnham    Mornington is a historic Irish manor home run by Anne and Warwick O'Hara that is sure to please.  Elegant rooms in a spacious environment.  Warwick is the quintessential breakfast cook and Anne is a gourmet cook who will prepare an optional "feast" for dinner at an extra charge.

8.  Co. Dublin:

Ferry House, Dun Laoghaire     A Victorian period home just off the town center of Dun Laoghaire, Ferry House is an excellent choice.  Ferry House is located in a great neighbourhood.  Conveniently located a block from the Sandycove DART station, one can be in center city Dublin in 15 mins.  Lots of pubs and excellent restaurants in the area.  The rooms are spacious and well appointed and Pauline and Eamon are most gracious hosts.

9.  Co. Wexford:

Dunbrody House, Arthurstown     Another 4-star luxury establishment with a fantastic award-winning restaurant.  The rooms are exceptional and come in three categories...suites, deluxe, and superior.  Caroline is quite the expert on wines and her husband, TV celebrity chef Kevin, makes every meal a memorable experience!

Hillside House, Gorey     Run by the ever gracious Ann Sunderland, Hillside house has a lovely view all the way to the Irish Sea.  Conveniently located close to town center, the rooms are spacious and elegant

Money

Unless you feel more comfortable with them, traveler’s checks aren't necessary if you have an ATM card. Almost every town has a bank with an ATM machine that will accept most of the normal US cards and almost every shop, restaurant, pub, or attraction will accept the standard US credit cards. The Euro (€) is the currency standard in the Republic of Ireland (Southern Ireland) and the ATM limit for most machines is €600. It seems that Ireland simply changed prices from the the old Irish pound or punt (£) to Euro dollars which has made everything more expensive than it was a few years ago. In fact many printed signs at tourist attractions may still say £ but they mean €.

If you venture into Northern Ireland, the currency switches to the British Pound Sterling (£) and the exchange rates are totally different.  However, recently they have gone to a dual currency system in the North where they now accept the euro dollar.

Cell Phones

I suggest that you purchase a mobile phone for use in Ireland which you can get before you go or after you arrive.  If you buy it before you go, be sure that it is a tri-band phone with an Irish SIM card.  I purchased a "Ready to Go" Vodafone for about €100 which included €60 worth of calls. Vodafone stores can usually be found in any large town. The phone number is good throughout most of Ireland (and the rest of Europe) for a year from date of purchase so, if you keep going back as I plan to, the number will be good forever.  Otherwise, you will get a new number each trip.  I used my phone to call ahead for reservations, get directions, speak to friends, etc.  I swear, EVERYONE in Ireland has a cell phone, even young children...I think they issue one with their birth certificates!! But beware...in Ireland it is illegal for the driver to use the cell phone while driving and they are SERIOUS!!

Music

Radio? Unless you are a teen and into Techno music, forget it!! I looked forward to hearing traditional Irish music and ended up having to buy my own tapes or CDs. If you are into talk radio, you're in business.  The vast majority of the stations play modern music, not traditional Irish.  Radio Na Gael plays traditional Irish music but the speech is entirely in Irish!  Since FM is "line of sight", the Irish terrain will cause havoc with your stations and you will find yourself constantly scanning for better reception.

In the towns and villages, pub music is plentiful but, again, this is a nighttime event. The music normally doesn’t begin until 10 PM. After most of the tourists leave, many of the popular music bands will transition to traditional Irish music.

If you are in the area of Cashel in southern Tipperary, going to Brú Ború is a MUST!! This Irish heritage center has a thoroughly entertaining stage show that, while decidedly smaller in scale, rivals Riverdance in the quality of music and dance. They have entertained the President of the United States, the Prime Minister of Australia, many Ambassadors, Frank Sinatra, Liza Minelli and thousands of fans from all over the world. Tickets for dinner and the show run around €25 and, after the show, everyone is invited to join the cast in a large room downstairs for more music and "audience participation." Great craic!!

Roads

The transition to driving on the "wrong" side of the road was not nearly as difficult as I had been led to believe – maybe because I’m left-handed and, as I’ve frequently been told, I think the wrong way anyway.

I found the Irish roads to be pretty well marked albeit poorly surfaced except for some of the national highways. Somewhat disconcerting is the fact that the distances marked on the signs jump between miles and kilometers. Newer signs use the former and older signs use the latter. Even so, I was able to find my way around fairly effortlessly. Admittedly, I got lost a few times but, in every case, those brief "detours" always led to a discovery of something I enjoyed finding.  In Gaeltacht regions, it's a bit more difficult as the map is in English while the signs are in Irish.

The conditions range from divided motorways (expressways) to extremely narrow country roads – often on the same road!! As of January 2005, the speed limits in the Republic have changed. The speed limit on motorways is now 120 km/h or approximately 75 mph.   On National roads (N routes) it is 100 km/h (approx 62 mph). Once you get off the main roads the speed limit becomes (50 mph) 80 km/h on regional and local roads though, on the winding country roads, you’ll be lucky to exceed 40 mph. In the towns and cities it is generally 50 km/h (30 mph) with lower limits imposed in designated areas near schools and other cautionary areas.

Although becoming more plentiful in the US, roundabouts and mini-roundabouts are used extensively throughout Ireland. The roads and streets are narrow - even the national roads - and there is not much room for two-way traffic.  Often, the roads are unmarked and, as you will frequently find, the travelers must decide who has the right of way on occasions when only one car can pass. The presence of a bridge or a steep cliff raises the pucker factor especially if there are bicyclists or motorcyclists in the equations too.   In many places there are areas that one car can pull off (called lay-bys) to let the other pass though one of you may have to back up.  Double parking is the norm and triple parking is not uncommon.  This doesn't leave much room for you.  So, be careful.  You will often find an oncoming car in your lane.  Luckily, they will be driving slowly so it isn't all that unsafe - just a bit unsettling the first couple of times.  On the narrower streets, people park on the sidewalks.

On those winding roads, you never know what’s around the next bend – a wide truck, a tour bus, a tractor, or an entire herd of livestock. I encountered cattle herds three times!!

The Irish use international symbols for their roads signs that can be rather entertaining at times. They also have some quaint terms such as traffic calming (whatever that means?) and no naked lights.  And, for those of us who are not the brightest bulb in the lamp, many streets are marked to tell pedestrians which way to look for traffic.

Weather

The climate in Ireland is unique and is a perennial subject of conversation. There is an old saying, "You don't go to Ireland for the weather". However, the weather in Ireland can be quite pleasant. The temperature remains relatively moderate throughout the year, never getting too hot to or too cold. Temperatures typically range between 40 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit (4 to10 Celsius) in the winter months and 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit (16 to 21 Celsius) in the summer months.

It rains a lot, and seldom snows. Accumulations are greatest in the West and least in the East and occur most frequently in the summer months. Storms can blow in from the Atlantic without notice. It can be sunny one minute and raining the next. It can be sunny, quickly shower, and once again become sunny. A few moments later, you would never know it rained at all. Often the rain does not last long and comes as soft showers or a fine mist. They often produce absolutely spectacular rainbows. Since the weather is often unpredictable, I recommend you dress in layers that can be adjusted as the weather conditions change. Night temperatures are cool (even cold) and the days can be quite warm. Since Ireland is so far north, in the summer months it doesn’t really get dark until close to 11 PM so you have a full day to use. 

Regions/Areas

Cork and Kerry Region

Cork City, Ireland’s second largest city, was founded by St Fin barre in the late 500s.  The historic beauty of the city is rife with tourist attractions.  Magnificent architecture abounds in Cork with the most obvious examples being St Fin barre’s Cathedral, St Mary and St Anne Cathedral, and the National Monument to all those who gave their lives in various wars. One of the more famous attractions nearby Blarney Castle - home to the famous Blarney Stone. The castle is a wonderful structure situated in park-like surroundings and, of course, legend has that those who are brave enough to extend backwards to kiss the Blarney Stone are granted the gift of eloquence.

I was absolutely taken with the incredibly lovely and lively small seaport village of Kinsale on the southern coast of Co. Cork and its brightly painted buildings decorated with gorgeous baskets of flowers. Except for the main street, Kinsale’s streets are very narrow and I recommend parking in the Car Park next to The Tourist Office and walking around town. Every town in Ireland has a Tourist Office and, in this case, I was able to get easy directions to the Rivermount House B&B which is a lovely B&B about four miles outside of town located atop a hill overlooking the Bandon River with a breathtaking panoramic view of the valley.

While in Kinsale, you can dine at the restaurant in the Blue Haven Hotel.  The French cuisine there is exquisite although a bit pricey.  Considering both the quality of the food and the cost, you may prefer the more reasonably priced Hoby’s and Jim Edwards. On the opposite end of town, on the slope of a hill overlooking the harbor is Man Friday which I recommend highly.  But, in the Summer months, I recommend that you have reservations. Newman’s Market is a centrally located meeting place that is always filled with people.

From Kinsale, you can take daytrips to various locations along N71 in the West Cork area. Without a doubt, the highlights are Bantry House and the spectacular scenery throughout the region. Using the scenic coastal route, the trip took us through the towns of Skibereen and Clonakilty. On the road to Bantry, stop at the hillside town of Glendore for lunch and proceed on to the Drombeg Circle – an ancient ring of stones similar in function to Stonehenge in England but not nearly as spectacular.   Bantry House itself is exquisite. Sitting high on a knoll overlooking Bantry Bay, this 1739 manor home and its gardens are open to the public. In addition, there are a limited number of rooms for people to stay there. Breakfast and dinner are available to residents. The architecture of the rooms is awesome and each is filled with antique furniture, tapestries, and fine art.

A detour well worth making is the jaunt out to the lighthouse station at Mizzen Head. Positioned on a craggy outcropping amidst majestic cliffs and crashing waves, the lighthouse station marks the southernmost point of Ireland's mainland. You can reach the lighthouse station by a long footpath descending from the Visitors' Center and across a sturdy bridge spanning a deep crevice...a trek not for the fainthearted. Another daytrip should include Charles Fort, and the island city of Cobh (pronounced Cove) - the last port of call in Ireland for the HMS Titanic. Charles Fort is a classic example of a star-shaped fort, which was constructed, in the late 17th century on the site of an earlier coastal fortification. Directly across the harbor are the ruins of James Fort, an earlier structure built in 1602. In 1690, after the Battle of the Boyne, the Williamite forces arrived at Kinsale and attacked both forts.

Cobh was once called Queenstown after the prison ship "Queen" that was the first to sail directly to the penal colony in Australia with prisoners from Ireland.  Later, it was the primary port of departure for Irish emigrants with nearly 2.5 million of the 6 million that left Ireland between 1848 and 1950 being processed through the city. A major attraction in Cobh is St Colman’s Cathedral located high atop a hill overlooking the city. The cathedral houses the largest carillon in Ireland with 47 bells. In addition, there is a memorial to the Lusitania, which was torpedoed by a German U-boat in 1915 and sunk in the Irish Channel. Passengers and bodies were transported to Cobh.

I also recommend trips to the Dingle Peninsula and around the Ring of Kerry. These will easily take you four hours each.  The Dingle Peninsula is indescribably beautiful and, in my opinion, puts California’s Pacific Coast Highway to shame. Each new view surpassed the last, and the serpentine trip over Connor Pass is a thrill !!  While in Co. Kerry, be sure to visit one of Ireland's top tourist spots - the beautiful harbor town of Killarney.   Killarney has much to offer though certainly the all-day Gap of Dunloe tour is a must see.  In addition, you can visit Muckross House, Ross Castle, and Torc Falls.

The Lower Shannon

While in Co. Clare, stay at (or at least visit) Dromoland Castle in Newmarket-on-Fergus (Co. Clare). Everything about this establishment, built in the 1543 and refurbished in 1962, radiates class. The staff, the rooms, the grounds, and the restaurant were all superb.   And Dromoland has one of the finest golf courses in the country. The entire atmosphere is designed to make you feel like royalty.  Using this as a base of operations, you can take daytrips via N18 to Ennis and then R474 through The Burren to the Cliffs of Mohr.

As you travel the switchback roads through The Burren, you will marvel at the stark beauty of Europe’s largest single deposit of limestone worn barren by ancient glaciers. The weather at the Cliffs of Mohr can be a bit foggy but not so much as to detract from their beauty. Another daytrip can take you south along N21 through the towns of Adare and Tralee.  Adare is famous for its beautiful thatched-roof homes.

Spend an afternoon at Bunratty Castle and Folk Park and end the day by attending a medieval banquet in the castle. This is a highly recommended fun event beginning with drinks of mead in the Great Hall where you are entertained by a troupe dressed in period costumes playing and singing songs of the time. You can finish up your evening across the street from the castle in the most famous pub in Ireland – Durty Nelly’s.  On one visit, I stayed at nearby Mary Browne's Bunratty Lodge which is beautifully decorated and furnished.

You can spend a leisurely day touring Killaloe and Ballina – two quaint towns along R483 separated by the River Shannon. If the weather is nice, take a scenic boat ride around Lough Derg and have lunch at a terrific pub/restaurant called Gooser‘s in Ballina. Or, drive along the shores of Lough Derg and soak in the incredible scenery of this large lake surrounded by lush mountains. At the northern edge of the lake, stop at Portumna Forest Park and enjoy a quiet relaxing hike through the woods.

The West

Though still in Co. Clare, detour via R460 and R480 to visit Poulnabrone Domen (Clare Rock) – an ancient burial site located with in The Burren. From there, you can travel to Aillwee Cave and take a tour through this fascinating prehistoric cavern carved through the limestone by rushing water. Then you can take N18 and N6 to Galway.

The West is sheep country and the terrain is lined with hundreds of stone walls separating the various plots worked by the peasants in the days before the great Famine. There are wire fences along the roads but, apparently, the sheep don’t know it because you will find them everywhere grazing on the shoulders.  Check your calendar because the last week in July is Race Week in Galway (The Galway Summer festival) and the city is MOBBED.  Accommodations will be almost impossible to find unless you already have reservations.  If cost isn't a problem, stay at Cashel House in the Connemara region.  Of all the different places I stayed in Ireland, Cashel House is one my favorites though expensive!!. Mrs. Kay McEvily has operated the establishment since 1968 and the staff is extremely friendly. The food at Cashel House is nothing short of exquisite and our Garden Suite was magical.

While in Co. Galway, take N59 and R336 to Rossaveal where you can catch a passenger ferry to sparsely populated Innishmor – the largest of the Aran Islands. Innishmor reflects captivatingly simplistic lifestyle. Take a pony cart around the island where you will be enthralled by the stories of the islands related by your driver.  On another daytrip, drive N59 to Galway and take a boat ride through Lough Corrib – the largest lake in the Republic – and visit the Galway Cathedral and the Spanish Arch. Of course, a trip to Galway just wouldn’t be complete without shopping at the Galway Crystal and Royal Tara China factories. I recommend departing Galway via the area of Salt Hill and its beach drive.

Another fantastic place to visit is Kylemore Abbey - home to the Benedictine nuns who had fled to Ireland from France during World War I. The nuns still run an international school for girls there. This majestic example of Gothic architecture is located among the mountains known as The Twelve Pins, along with a Gothic Church built by the castle’s as a tribute to his deceased wife, Margaret. The future of Kylemore Abbey is somewhat uncertain.  Due to the falling number of recruits into the order, the last class of boarding students will graduate in 2008. No one knows at this time what the Benedictine order will do with the buildings and grounds. If time permits, be sure to travel to the nearby village of Cong and visit spectacular Ashford Castle. Located about 30 miles from Galway, Ashford Castle is located on a 350 acre estate in Cong and is one of the more popular tourist attractions in the area. Once the home of the Guinness family, Ashford is one of several castles open to the public as a hotel/restaurant, and this 13th century landmark has hosted numerous dignitaries over the years including actor Pierce Brosnan and his second wife, Keely Shaye Smith, who chose this as the site for their wedding reception in 2001. Located on the grounds of the estate is the cottage used in the John Ford's film The Quiet Man (1952) as the home of John Wayne and Maureen O'Hara.

Another popular destination in Co. Galway is the terrific little coastal town of Clifden and its plethora of antique shops, as well as the village of Roundstone.

The Northwest

Co. Mayo.  I stayed in Ballina and took day trips throughout the county. Co. Mayo has some spectacular scenery especially on Achill Island.  The island is connected to the mainland by a causeway and you can drive the entire coastline. Incredible cliffs and beaches can be viewed.  Also, you can drive to the top of the mountain where you can see for miles in every direction.  The lovely little town of Westport is worth visiting too.

Then you can take N15 north to Donegal through Westport and Sligo. If it is the first week in August, be sure to stop along the way at Ballyshannon which will be having its annual Folk Festival. There, you can enjoy a nice lunch at Maggie's Bar and take in the sounds of traditional Irish music.

I can recommend three places to stay in Donegal Town.  The first is St. Ernan’s House which is located on a privately owned island connected to the mainland by a stone causeway. The others are The Arches Country House and neighboring Ardeevin House, both about 2 miles outside of town overlooking Lough Eske.  

Co. Donegal is my favorite of all of Ireland.  Not nearly as crowded as the counties to the South and East, the landscape is unspoiled and the scenery is breathtaking.  I highly recommend a daytrip to the cliffs at Slieve League and the Glenveagh National Park in the hearty of the Derryveagh Mountains.  There you will find Glenveagh Castle nestled in a green valley on the shores of a gorgeous lake.

Another daytrip would be to the Fanad and Atlantic Drives via the Bloody Foreland.  This drive will expose you to some of the most ruggedly beautiful scenescapes I have ever experienced.  You can dine in either of the quaint towns of Rathmelton and Portsalon and, if it's a nice day, a swim or a walk on the beaches at Portsalon would be fun.

The North

From Co. Donegal, I recommend you take a trip to the walled city of Derry in Northern Ireland, starting at the Guild Hall.  It takes about two hours to get there from Donegal Town.  Up the street from the Guild Hall is the Bloody Sunday Centre which contains historical books and photographs of the January 30, 1972 Civil Rights demonstration where the crowd was fired upon by British troops killing 13 and wounding 15. One of the wounded died later as a result of the incident. The dead and wounded were part of a group of peaceful unarmed demonstrators protesting a 1971 decision to imprison political dissidents without trial. A British government appointed tribunal later found the soldiers Not Guilty. However, in 1998, British Prime Minister Tony Blair ordered a new inquiry into the incident by three judges…the British Law Lord, Lord Saville of Newdigate, and two Commonwealth judges - the Hon John Toohey (Australia), and Justice William Hoyt (Canada). While in Derry, you can "walk the wall" which surrounds the ancient city or take a short trip into the Bogside – the Catholic section of town outside the walls - which was the actual site of Bloody Sunday.  In the Bogside, several buildings are decorated with murals depicting the fight for independence. There are two memorials - one tells visitors that they are entering "Free Derry" and the second commemorates those who died during the Hunger Strikes while imprisoned in H Block at Longkesh prison.

Along the north coast of Northern Ireland are the Giant's Causeway and the Carrick-a-rede rope bridge in Co. Antrim....the latter being another of those not recommended for the fainthearted. Mythology has it that the Giant's Causeway was built by the giant, Finn McCool, who had fallen in love with a lady giant on Staffa, an island in the Hebrides. Finn built the wide highway to bring her across to Ulster.  The rope bridge, which sways and bounces with each step, spans an 80 foot chasm over azure blue water. While there are no records of anyone falling off the bridge, there are reports of visitors being unable to face the walk back, resulting in them being having to be taken off the island by boat

The Midlands

A trip to the Midlands just isn't complete without a stop in Northern Ireland at Beleek Pottery. From there you can travel into the quaint country town of Monaghan and dine at The Squealing Pig pub. Just outside town is Castle Leslie (Castle Gal slough) - one of Ireland’s five haunted castles - which dates back to 1633. Charles Powell Leslie decided to help his brother -in-law, Lord Morning ton, educate his son Arthur who later, as the Duke of Wellington, defeated Napoleon at Waterloo. Sir John Leslie - the 2nd Baronet - was the only son out of five children. He married Leonie Jerome whose elder sister Jenny married Lord Randolph Churchill – father of Winston Churchill. There are many Churchill 'hand me downs' in the Castle as the Leslies were considered the poor relations.  In its prime, the estate was massive – incorporating the town and all of the land for miles around – encompassed within a 10-foot stone wall. Today, much of the estate has been sold off but the castle, its gatehouse, an ancient church, and the immediate grounds (still huge) remain.   Although peppered with antiques and priceless fine art, Castle Leslie has the look of a family that has fallen on hard times. It is occupied by 84 year old Sir John (Jack) Leslie – an odd but utterly charming fellow.

Another place I enjoyed in the Midlands was the town of Mullingar in Co. Westmeath.   I stayed at Mornington House built in 1710 and expanded in 1896. This magnificent country home - owned and operated by Anne and Warwick O’Hara - is located in Multyfarnham just a short distance from Mullingar. While in Mullingar, I had a delicious lunch at Druid’s Chair in Mullingar.  I took daytrips to tour the area visiting the Seven Wonders of Fore, Castlepollard, and Athlone. I had a great lunch at an Italian-American restaurant in Athlone called TriBeca. From there, I visited Belvedere Castle and its Jealous Wall. The wall was built by Robert Rochfort - the First Earl of Belevedere - in 1760, following an argument with his brother George, who owned Tudenham house nearby. It was built to block out any view of Tudenham House. The wall was built in the form of a sham ruin of an abbey and has been carefully stabilized and restored. Robert also imprisoned his wife, Mary Molesworth, in a house about 5 miles away for 31 years for infidelity. Tongues wag at why Robert chose to live in a home with only two bedrooms and a staff of 12 young men.

 Dublin

Depending on how you approach the city, I recommend a stop at Monasterboice - the site of Ireland’s most noted high crosses. Still an active cemetery, the huge stone tower and the ancient crosses were fascinating. Also in the area is Newgrange – site of a prehistoric village – but arrive early to beat the   tour buses!!

I took the M1 around Dublin and proceeded to the elegant section of Ballsbridge. I stayed at Simmonstown House which is a lovely home built in 1900 and run by Finola and James Curry who purchased it in 1988. While in Dublin, I dined at three restaurants that I highly recommend. The first two were in Ballsbridge itself – Coopers and Kites.  Kites is a terrific Chinese restaurant with incredible food and service. The third is called Il Primo and located off Grafton Street. I found about this place through several sources that raved about it. When I arrived, I thought I’d made a mistake since the ambience was rough and cluttered. However, I soon got beyond first impressions and thoroughly enjoyed the authentic Tuscany cuisine. At Il Primo, you can order bottles of wine but you only pay for what you drink. They take back the remainder and deduct if from your bill. If you’d like, you can change wines in mid-meal. Never in our wildest dreams would I have thought that I’d be in Dublin dining at an Italian restaurant owned by a German and run by a South African and listening to songs by Elvis Presley. What a great evening!!

I strongly recommend taking the "Hop On-Hop Off" bus in front of the General Post Office (GPO) building and riding the bus around the city centre. Stay on for a full cycle to learn where the various points of interest are located.  The bus has 16 stops at the major attractions and, for a single fee, you can ride it all day jumping off and on one whenever you want. They travel every 15 minutes and, one you know where the attractions are, you can get stop where you wish.  The major attractions in Dublin are too numerous to mention but the highlights were Trinity College, the Parliament House, Christ Church, St Patrick’s Cathedral, St Stephen’s Green, Phoenix Park, the shopping districts of O’Connell Street and Grafton Street, and the Temple Bar district.  I spent another morning touring Trinity College and its major attractions – the Book of Kells and the Long Hall.

The Southeast

If you are headed toward Waterford in the southeast, stop on the way to visit the famous Powerscourt and its spectacular gardens in Co. Wicklow.  Bought by an American in 1961, the mansion was being renovated and a stray spark from a torch started a fire that gutted the dwelling. Although the grounds are open to the public, only the Ballroom in the mansion can be visited. Nearby, was the Powerscourt waterfall. Word has it that they had built a dam above the fall to create a more spectacular show for the visiting King of England. Unfortunately, when they released the water, the resulting surge was so powerful, that it took out the bridge downstream.   From Powerscourt, you continue your drive through the Wicklow mountains to Arthurstown – on the opposite side of the river from Waterford. I stayed a fantastic country home built in 1830 – Dunbrody House - run by Catherine and Ken Dundon. Ken is an award winning Master Chef and, needless to say, the food is incomparable. Catherine was a gracious and cheery hostess who really knows her wines.  In Waterford itself is Waterford Castle and, of course, the world famous Waterford Crystal factory.  The tour of the factory is highly recommended.